So Long, Summer

By Samantha Bean

It never fails to amaze me that when you introduce yourself to someone for the first time and you begin to share stories and vignettes, you eventually strike a chord with them about something you both have in common.

This very same thing happened last weekend when I met with several other hikers on the Force of Nature hike series hosted by Friends of Hopewell Valley Open Space (FoHVOS). All of us drove different roads and we all parked with our various makes and models of vehicle. And yet, once we got to talking and loosening our muscles before the two-hour climb to the top of Baldpate Mountain, we quickly shared our stories about what was present in our lives and families. 

As we went around in a circle and rolled our shoulders and breathed in the humid Sunday morning air a common theme of transition arose from all of our stories. Some of us were in the process of moving our children into college dorms. Some across the country, others, just across the state line...but equally as tough. Others were in the process of visiting colleges a year before the big graduation. Some of us were transitioning our kids into middle school while others were simply trying to transition the thoughts of no more lazy summer mornings. Morning that will soon be hectic dashes to the bus stop with the hopes that lunch wasn’t left on the kitchen counter.

Romy takes opening selfie after we stretch

Our stories shared, and our muscles slightly warmed up, it was time to move on and begin the hike through the Ted Stiles Preserve on Baldpate Mountain. At the Summit trailhead, I began to notice another moment in transition. The leaves on the trees, reacting to the shortened days and longer nights were just beginning to show their crimson and amber colors as the green slowly fades to memory.

The first few feet of the trail begin with giant flat topped boulders that poke out of the dirt at perfect stepping intervals. Neat, I thought. The trail was bone dry in the late August heat, yet I wondered if mid-April these stones offered safe passage across a wet portion of the trail, at the base of a mountain. Indeed, a mountain it was and I was impressed that even in a short amount of time my heart was pumping. The incline hadn’t stopped yet.

Further along the trail which I began to notice was heavily trafficked by both walker, dog, and trail runners alike, the trail itself began to transition. At first, just a narrow path through towering tulip poplar trees soon became much more rocky. Even an Icelandic pony would find the boulder-strewn path quite a technical one. A few times, more giant boulders strategically placed as a one- or two-step staircase further up the mountain. Moments later, it was apparent that these stone placements were not nature’s work, but the careful and very well executed work of trail builders. Ahead of us was a boulder staircase that a first glance may look like a post glacial retreat relic. Yet, nearly impossible to imagine that so many flat topped rocks could arrange themselves so neatly, and so precisely that upon traversing them, not one wiggles, moves, or wobbles. Reaching the top of that man-made Mercer county wonder, you can’t help appreciate what work and labor went into making that. No wonder this trail is so well utilized. It is beautiful!

Hawk watching

Red-tailed hawk

Not much time left to catch our breath, we carried on up the trail and I began to take note that those trees around us are enormous. Climbing still, the trees still had many feet above us. At this point, the trail offers you a long route (Northwest Loop trail) or a shorter Blue trail taking you directly to the summit to reach the viewpoint. We opted for the longer route. Further ahead, the trail meanders through the old summer house estate and pond of the Kuser family. Proudly reigning in his domain, a red-tailed hawk perched happily on the open branches of an old tree. The raptor grabbed our attention for quite some time. He didn’t move, nor did we. Our hearts needed a break, and dare we move, he might fly away. Yet, this bird was enjoying his slow Sunday just as much as we were.

Only a few paces later we took a pond-side break for some meditation and quiet reflection, led by our trail guide Romy Toussaint of RomYoga in Lawrenceville. The pond was so quiet and so still, broken only by the constant call of the cicada. As we transitioned out of our five minute meditation, it was time to keep climbing. The summit wasn’t far.

Walking a little bit further, this preserve covering close to 1800 acres was

starting to show its expanse. We continued through the open field of the old estate and into a lush grassy meadow. The yellow of the season was beginning to overtake the purple bergamot that was present before. At the top of the mountain, a long line of huge white pines mark the edge of the meadow. While in the other direction, a sweeping vista of the Delaware river in the distance. I can only imagine what this view will look like once all the leaves start to turn and the greens begin to fade away.

Our hike was taken to new level now as we traversed down the meadow and through the dense wildflowers and grasses. We stopped for a moment at the Strawberry Hill Mansion, headquarters to FoHVOS to admire the restored garden of native plants. A perfect sycamore in the middle of it all offering plenty of shade throughout the long day and dappling the array of native plants like beardtongue, monarda, and swamp azalea. Once the garden of the Kuser family estate, time took its toll and much was left untouched and as such, became overrun with invasive species. Today, thanks to FoHVOS and volunteers, this garden is regaining its beauty and harboring a home for butterflies and other pollinators.

Following the trail back down the mountain, and even more carefully executing the boulder stairs, I could feel a sense of completion. The heat not bothering me, I knew that all too soon, the air wouldn’t smell of humidity and wildflowers, it would take on a whole new smell. As the trees transition into fall and the humidity decreases we remember how short the season of summer is and how all too quickly we are forced back into raincoats and boots and hot tea. For now, I’ll enjoy this heat while it’s here and worry about leaving lunches on the counter when the time comes.

The next hike in this series falls on Sunday, September 30th at 1pm.  This 2-mile forest bathing experience will at a surprise location in Hopewell Township. Location information will be shared closer to the event date.

 Please click here to register.

The Secret Forest

 By Samantha Bean

Pond in the Ted Stiles Preserve at Baldpate Mountain

One of the best kept secrets of New Jersey is its endless opportunities for exploration in a vast array of well-marked meadows, hills, deciduous and coniferous forests and rocky hillsides. The latter thanks to the immense amount of rock that makes up most of the Sourland Region. 

I am going to let you in on another amazing secret: getting back to nature while walking these trails grounds you. And when there are tiny pockets of glistening sunshine that make it down all the way to the forest floor from the dense canopy above...it’s just magic.

On a humid yet breezy Sunday afternoon I had the unique privilege of seeing these magical sun jewels dotting the trail that I hiked with several other women and our leader, Romy Toussaint, of RomYoga in Lawrenceville. A force of nature in her own right, Romy guided us on a forest meditation that began right at the head of the trail. 

Our connection to earth and the sounds that we could hear right from the beginning followed us throughout the two-hour hike in the Ted Stiles Preserve area of Baldpate Mountain in Titusville, NJ. This hike is one in a series of six hikes presented by Friends of Hopewell Valley Open Space and their Force of Nature Hike Series for Women and Girls.

Trees swaying in the wind

The cacophonous symphony of birds around us, and the back and forth communication of a gray tree frog was just the beginning. Gone was the rush of traffic noise or the mindless dings of smartphones or the sounds of anything battery- or electrically-powered. We connected with our deep breaths and recognized our gratitude for the ability to be enveloped in nature’s symphony. We then turned our backs to the parked cars and the high wires above our heads and the far-off sound of a lawn mower to begin our journey. As we walked, the wind was swaying the leaves back and forth and the ominous darker clouds made me wonder: when you are in the forest, do you hear the rain coming down through the leaves before you feel it on your skin?

Thanks to the five prior days of off and on showers and occasional downpours, the trail began as a rocky and sloppy first half mile. So rocky in fact that when you cautiously placed each foot in and around or sometimes directly on a rock, your feet began to reverberate with a nature-induced foot massage. The small tennis-ball sized boulders protruding out of the muck and slop were a welcome feeling to the flat pavement we are so accustomed to feeling. Then, at times there was the melodic sound of rushing water over protruding roots and down small rivets created during the last flooding downpour only days ago. Our leader cautioned us to place our steps with intent and traverse the downhill spots with slanted foot. A straight foot tends to slip more. Noted. Around us, we were surrounded by towering tulip poplar trees and Eastern Towhees chiming in with their notorious “drink-your-teeeea!!!!” call. As the trail narrowed, the canopy above seemed to open more and I saw the first glimmers of bright blue sky that I had seen in five days. It was a stunning blue.

Romy & Emma -uprooted tree

After a steep uphill climb to rejoin the Ridge Trail, we stopped for a moment to catch our breath and admire the force of nature right in front of us: a blowdown from either Sandy or some other monster supercell storm. The uprooted tree created its own form of art right there with the root system still intact looking like something Dorothy would encounter before she finds the Tin Man in the forest. Turning east, we meandered down a drier trail and over and under a few more downed trees. 

Pond where we meditated

Mostly walking downhill at this point, we found ourselves on the property of an abandoned summer house of an old estate. Sitting on the ledge of a tattered spring house we again took the time for the silence to embrace us. A two-minute meditation was interrupted only by a fish jumping after a large upside down wasp that clearly couldn’t swim. I was amazed that I heard nothing but wind, birds, frogs, and the sounds of deep breaths.

Continuing back around past the old house, we headed back to conclude our Sunday in the forest and hiked back up toward the artistic uprooted tree that clearly should have its own name. Catching a glimpse of the high tension wires through the trees, I began to realize that the trail was nearing its end. Romy ended our forest bathing experience with some stretches and parting good-byes. I encourage everyone to experience the same sounds and feelings. Truly feeling the force of nature right here in New Jersey. It’s our secret.

The third hike in this series falls on Sunday, July 15th at 9am at the Mount Rose Preserve in Hopewell. A 2-mile wellness hike that will include a guided meditation and forest bathing experience. Please click here to register.

Note: FoHVOS Force of Nature was inspired by a national campaign started by REI to encourage women and girls to get outside and play...putting women front and center, and hosting classes and events nationwide.

March Force of Nature: Carol Kleis

An often-told story in FoHVOS circles is the preservation history of Baldpate Mountain. This decade-long battle against development earned FoHVOS founding member, Ted Stiles, permanent association with the legendary win. Even today you will see “The Ted Stiles Preserve” listed atop every Baldpate Mountain sign.

The Ted Stiles Preserve at Baldpate Mountain sign

Ted has been gone for 10 years, but FoHVOS “Force of Nature” recipient Carol Kleis remembers those early days, especially the challenges and tales of the Ted Stiles Preserve, as one of the most significant forest preservation success stories in the entire state.

She took on a leadership role at FoHVOS in order to continue Ted’s legacy. She appreciates the significance of the broad stretches of preserved land throughout the entire region. As an avid hiker and native plant enthusiast, memories of the early days of FoHVOS often come to mind as Carol enjoys the splendid vistas and forest wildlife scenes that Hopewell Valley trails provide.  

A hike to the grassy summit of Baldpate Mountain, the highest point in Mercer County, offers a spectacular view of the Delaware River.  Carol enjoys visiting the FoHVOS offices at Strawberry Mansion high atop the mountain.

                   Native Plant Garden Chair

Always connecting with local land, Carol is not only the Trustee President to Friends of Hopewell Valley Open Space, but also chairs the Rutgers Master Gardeners of Mercer County Native Plant Garden working group. She is a long standing member of the Hopewell Township Open Space Advisory Committee and a former member of the Hopewell Valley Deer Management Task Force.

Her advocacy doesn’t stop there. Carol Kleis has chaired the local democratic committee and worked with community leaders to help shape the pro-environment and open space policies of the municipality.

Although she plans on continuing as a FoHVOS trustee, Carol will be retiring as President this year in order to encourage fresh leadership and ideas on the FoHVOS Executive Committee. Everyone who has worked with Carol has been enriched by her enthusiasm and passion to preserve Hopewell Valley lands.

We are happy to recognize Carol Kleis as our March FoHVOS Force of Nature.

A version of this article appears in the March issue of Hopewell Valley Neighbors magazine.

PennEast Pipeline: A habitat threat

Long Eared Owl at Baldpate Mountain - WCAS (Sharyn Magee)

The major component of the FoHVOS stewardship mission is protecting and restoring natural habitats.  A quick review of our stewardship staff and volunteers’ time indicate various types of activities that ultimately lead to protecting habitat. From invasive species management through forest and grassland restorations, our eye is always on stewarding an environment where flora and fauna will thrive.

With this mission in mind, we were disappointed to learn that the New Jersey Department of Environmental Protection (NJDEP) seemed to change their habitat requirements on the PennEast application.  Previously the NJDEP noted that PennEast’s draft Environmental Impact Statement lacked information on the pipeline’s impact on threatened and endangered flora and fauna and required that they conduct two years of wildlife surveys along portions of the proposed route.  Unfortunately, these conditions were not included in their latest feedback to PennEast.

Hooded warbler

We are aware that many groups opposing the PennEast pipeline were encouraged when the Army Corps of Engineers and the NJDEP ruled that PennEast’s application for its Clean Water Act permits were incomplete, missing significant required data.  Additionally, NJDEP ruled that PennEast’s application was made without having legal authority to enter all of the impacted properties along the proposed route since almost 70% of landowners in New Jersey have denied PennEast survey access.   PennEast was given 30 days to remedy those application deficiencies.

Kentucky warbler

We are less encouraged.  The NJDEP delay does not mitigate our habitat concerns. Environmental impact should be considered before PennEast’s applications are reviewed. 

The Mercer County Parks Commission has partnered with FoHVOS for over 10 years to properly steward the Ted Stiles Preserve at Baldpate Mountain. Our FoHVOS champion for whom the preserve was named, spent a decade protecting the mountain from improper development.  Now, Baldpate Mountain is under serious threat from the proposed pipeline, with PennEast proposing to expand the existing utility right-of-way by clear-cutting an additional 150+ feet of mature forest. 

Baldpate Mountain is not only amon Mercer County’s largest contiguous forests and wildlife habitats, but has also been designated as an Audubon Important Bird Area and is an important migratory stop and breeding area for Neotropical birds, many of which are ranked by the American Bird Conservancy as birds of conservation concern.  Hooded and Kentucky warblers are not found elsewhere in Hopewell - Baldpate harbors the only forest large enough for them.  The potential damage to these breeding birds cannot be mitigated by PennEast. 

Bald Eagle - US Fish & Wildlife

In our developing Forest Stewardship Plan, we’ve found that nearly 1,000 species of plants and animals can be found at Baldpate.  Of these species, there are over 30 rare species and another 75 species of high conservation value.  Plant species include the beautiful wild comfrey and yellow giant hyssop.  Rare long-eared owls (see top photo) have recently been discovered by Washington Crossing Audubon Society and Hopewell Township just documented an American bald eagle directly on the pipeline’s proposed path. 

Baldpate Mountain was preserved with taxpayer monies to permanently protect its sensitive ecosystem and the rare species that depend upon it.  In a mostly built out state, it’s simply not possible to replace the preserved lands like Baldpate that PennEast is proposing to degrade or destroy.

We encourage the NJDEP to restore its previous protections and survey requirements for threatened and endangered flora and fauna, before it reviews PennEast’s permit applications.

Featured Partner: Mercer County Parks

Today's view from the FoHVOS Office

After Remembering Ted Stiles, you know that FoHVOS founder, Ted Stiles worked for a decade to protect the beautiful Baldpate mountain from development. 

The Ted Stiles Preserve at Baldpate Mountain now comprises over 1500 acres, making it the largest preserved natural area in Mercer County.  FoHVOS employees enjoy these beautiful views, from our home atop Strawberry Hill Mansion, every day we come to work! 

Driving up to FoHVOS

The Mercer County Park Commission has been a great partner with us and it's time to give props.

Mercer County is the primary owner of the Preserve and they work hard to keep the facilities in great shape and accessible to the public. Today's Baldpate visitors had the pleasure of snow-covered mountain with the safety of a salted and cleared path. 

Hopewell Valley locals and visitors are the biggest winner of our FoHVOS/Mercer County partnership! Our joint stewardship teams continue to care for the

Driving down from FoHVOS

mountain through restoration of forest and meadow, tracking and caring for rare species and reducing the threats of invasive species.  We are now jointly working on a comprehensive Forest Stewardship Plan that will guide our work over the next 10 years.  The plan will guide as we fulfill the goal of stewarding a healthy and beautiful mountain!

FoHVOS has also restored and filled the stone-walled Strawberry Hill garden with native wildflowers, shrubs & trees.

Mansion entrance

When not restoring native plants, FoHVOS stewards and volunteers are removing invasive species and using advanced GPS/GIS mapping techniques to track our efforts across the mountain.

The County provides trail maps here so that you can enjoy the mountain on your own.

FoHVOS also offer special guided hikes that share unique insights about local history and ecology.

FoHVOS offices

Mercer County and their catering partner provide a beautiful venue for events.

Whether enjoying Baldpate from the mountain or from the Mansion, visitors can delight in nature and enjoy our own private paradise.

Hats off to the Mercer County Parks Commission -- our featured partner. 

Remembering Ted Stiles

 President
Friends of Hopewell Valley Open Space
1989 - 2007

While most Hopewell Valley folks know Baldpate Mountain, few newcomers are familiar with its rich history including the decade long fight led by Friends of Hopewell Valley Open Space (FoHVOS) early member Ted Stiles to save this beautiful land from development.

According to majority owner, Mercer County:

  

“In 1986 the property was sold to Trap Rock Industries, who planned to expand the quarry that already existed on Route 29.  When these plans failed, the remaining land was destined to be sold for luxury housing development.  Public concern and the efforts of the late conservationist Ted Stiles led to the property’s acquisition by Mercer County in 1998, creating today’s Ted Stiles Preserve at Baldpate Mountain.”

The Ted Stiles Preserve at Baldpate Mountain sign

The Ted Stiles Preserve at Baldpate Mountain now comprises over 1500 acres, making it the largest preserved natural area in Mercer County. 

Today marks the 10-year anniversary of Ted Stiles’s passing, yet his legacy lives on in our continued work at Friends of Hopewell Valley Open Space. 

We try to hold true to his vision and passion to ensure the land will be used and appreciated for generations to come.

For Ted, the presence of species like the Hooded or Kentucky Warbler would have further confirmed the great importance of protecting Baldpate. According to FoHVOS Stewardship Director, Mike Van Clef Ph.D.:

Kentucky Warbler

Hooded Warbler

"Above all else, Ted was fueled by an unabiding love of nature.  As an ecologist, he studied its intricacies and the interactions between its components (especially the co-evolution between birds and the fruit they eat). But for him, this was not enough.  He felt compelled to protect every last piece of nature that was humanly possible.  Untiring, he protected lands throughout the state, including adding many acres to the Hutcheson Memorial Forest (one of New Jersey's only old growth forests).  Lucky for all residents of the Hopewell Valley, Ted focused his protection efforts where he lived."  

Ted led or assisted with the protection of nearly 6,500 acres, which is over half of the protected lands in the Valley.  FoHVOS has continued his work and we now have increased our impact to almost 60% of the protected lands throughout the Valley.  A map and list of locations of our preserves is available here.

Our most recent preserve at Mount Rose will open in June 2017. Co-owners include Mercer County, New Jersey Conservation Foundation, and Hopewell Township. We know that Ted would be so proud to see that work conclude with nearly 400 acres of preserved land.

Bronze Plaque dedicated at the first Ted Stiles Memorial Hike

Hello, Happy to be here!

As the new Executive Director here at Friends of Hopewell Valley Open Space (FoHVOS), I have an important job as we work to literally save the world, or at least protect our little piece of it…

In my first blog post, I’ll share a little about me.  In subsequent posts, I'll try to provide interesting information, enable investigation, and inspire you to take action.

Many around our Valley already know me as the HVRSD Board of Education President; so the first question folks ask is, “Your leadership role is in education, so why do you want to work for FoHVOS?”

My answer is “because it is a perfect fit.”  Let me share a little secret…  The FoHVOS Board didn’t really pursue me; I begged them for the position.  My dream job is collaborating with a team that directly improves lives -- both locally and ultimately as part of our global community.

In both HVRSD and as I transition more time to FoHVOS, I’m living the dream!

I believe that success is driven by personal connections.  Education and environment are both areas that personally touch everyone and directly affect individual development and future success.  Everybody has been to school. Everyone strolls our land, breaths our air, and drinks our water. A mere moment's reflection is all that is needed to remind us of their significance.

We make a great impact with long-lasting effect. HVRSD educates the most students in Hopewell Valley. FoHVOS preserves and protects more land than any other Hopewell Valley based non-profit.

We focus on positive, nonpartisan outcomes.  Since we all agree on the ultimate mission, we can minimize political controversy by focusing on common ground. Whether discussing education, farmland preservation, stewardship, or open space, we achieve the best outcomes when everyone has a seat at the table.

We partner with families, local businesses, and other non-profits.  Hopewell Valley is a special community that benefits from increasing connections, intersections and relationships.  I look forward to facilitating that growth.

Please stay tuned for more posts and join me on my journey of learning, exploration and action to achieve the healthiest Hopewell Valley environment. 

For an invitation to attend, the “Meet the FoHVOS Executive Director” Open House on March 29th at 6pm at the Ted Stiles Preserve at Baldpate Mountain, send your email address to Julia.